Phrygian Valley Guide: Yazılıkaya and the Midas Monument
The Phrygian Valley (Frig Vadisi) stretches across Turkey's Eskişehir, Afyonkarahisar and Kütahya provinces, gathering monuments carved into volcanic tuff cliffs by the ancient Phrygian civilization. Its best-known landmark, the Midas Monument at Yazılıkaya (Midas City), stands in Eskişehir province's Han district, while the rock-cut churches of Ayazini and the fairy chimneys of Seydiler, both in Afyonkarahisar, round out a route that can be covered over one or several days.
## Where Is the Midas Monument at Yazılıkaya?
The Midas Monument stands within the ancient site of Midas City, near the village of Yazılıkaya in the Han district of Eskişehir province, not Afyonkarahisar, as it is sometimes assumed. Carved into the face of a massive rock outcrop, the monument takes the form of a niche framed by geometric patterns, believed to have been dedicated to King Midas or to the mother goddess Matar (Cybele). The surrounding plateau also holds rock-cut tombs, cisterns and the remains of an acropolis, evidence of how the Phrygian civilization shaped this site as a sacred center around the 8th-7th centuries BC. Most visitors reach Yazılıkaya by car from Eskişehir city, then explore the open-air site on foot along marked paths.
## The Rock-Cut Churches of Ayazini
Ayazini is a village in the İhsaniye district of Afyonkarahisar province, known for the churches and tomb chambers carved directly into the rock formations surrounding it. Some structures date to the Byzantine period, while others are older Phrygian rock tombs; parts of the rock outcrops in and around the village are still used for storage or shelter today. One of the best-known Phrygian tombs at Ayazini features lion reliefs carved into its facade, a recognizable example of the Phrygian stone-carving tradition. The compact scale of the village makes it easy to walk between the main rock-cut features in an hour or two.
## Seydiler's Fairy Chimneys and the Valley's Landscape
Seydiler, located in the İscehisar district of Afyonkarahisar province, is known for its fairy chimneys, slender rock formations shaped by wind and rain eroding layers of volcanic tuff. They are smaller in scale than Cappadocia's formations but still reflect the same geological process at work across the wider valley. İscehisar district is also historically tied to marble quarrying dating back to Roman times, when the ancient quarries of Docimium supplied stone across the region. Beyond Seydiler, the valley's mix of canyons, farmland and small villages gives the area a quiet, rural character.
## How Should You Plan a Trip Through the Phrygian Valley?
Because the Phrygian Valley spans three provinces, covering every site in a single day is difficult; most visitors combine Yazılıkaya, Ayazini and Seydiler over a two-day route. The marked long-distance trail known as the Phrygian Way (Frig Yolu) links canyons and villages for travelers who prefer a multi-day trekking itinerary. Spring and autumn are generally the most comfortable seasons to visit, with moderate temperatures and clearer views of the tuff formations. Having your own vehicle makes moving between the three provinces considerably easier than relying on public transport alone.
FAQ
Which province is the Midas Monument actually in?
The Midas Monument is often mistakenly associated with Afyonkarahisar, but it actually stands near the village of Yazılıkaya in the Han district of Eskişehir province, inside the ancient site known as Midas City. Carved into a large rock face with a geometric-patterned niche, the monument is one of the most recognizable religious structures from the Phrygian period, generally dated to the 8th-7th centuries BC. Because rock tombs, cisterns and acropolis remains surround it, a visit typically takes more than an hour, and travelers usually approach the site from Eskişehir city.
Which districts are Ayazini and Seydiler located in?
The rock-cut churches of Ayazini lie in the İhsaniye district of Afyonkarahisar province, while the Seydiler fairy chimneys are in the same province's İscehisar district; both sites sit closer to central Afyonkarahisar than Yazılıkaya does. Ayazini combines Byzantine and Phrygian rock-cut structures within a single small village, while Seydiler's fairy chimneys are natural formations shaped by the erosion of volcanic tuff. Since the two villages are close together, it's practical to visit both in one day, and İscehisar's historic marble quarries can easily be added to the same route.