Izmir, Selçuk and Şirince Guide: Heart of the Aegean
Izmir, Selçuk and Şirince form a compact trio on Turkey's Aegean coast where ancient history and countryside charm sit side by side. In Selçuk, the ruins of ancient Ephesus, the Basilica of St John and the İsa Bey Mosque stand close to one another, while the House of the Virgin Mary lies just outside town. The hillside village of Şirince is known for its stone houses and fruit wines, and Izmir itself offers the Kordon promenade, Kadifekale and the Kemeraltı bazaar.
## What Can You See at the Ancient City of Ephesus in Selçuk?
Selçuk is the gateway to ancient Ephesus, a UNESCO World Heritage Site whose ruins draw visitors from around the world. The remains of the Basilica of St John stand on a hill near the town's acropolis, with much of the surviving structure dating to the Byzantine period. Close by, the İsa Bey Mosque is a notable example of early Ottoman architecture, built with finely cut stone. The Ephesus Museum displays statues, coins and everyday objects unearthed from the ancient city, along with fragments from the Temple of Artemis. The temple is counted among the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, though today only a single reconstructed column and scattered foundation stones remain on the original site.
## The House of the Virgin Mary: A Quiet Place of Pilgrimage
Set on a wooded hill south of Ephesus, the House of the Virgin Mary (Meryemana) is a shared site of devotion for both Christian and Muslim visitors. The small stone house is associated with the belief that Mary spent her final years there, and it draws pilgrims from Turkey and abroad throughout the year. A wall near the entrance is covered with written wishes left by visitors, and a nearby spring is considered a source of blessed water. Framed by quiet pine woods, the site feels more contemplative than the busier ruins nearby, and it sits a short drive from central Selçuk.
## Şirince: A Wine Village on the Hillside
A few kilometers from Selçuk, Şirince is built up a hillside and carries the legacy of a Greek village, with stone houses lining its narrow lanes. Home to a Greek Orthodox population until the 1923 population exchange, the village has since become known for its fruit wines, including plum, pomegranate and blackberry varieties. Shops around the village square sell olive-oil products, handmade soaps and woven textiles, and the lanes fill with visitors especially on weekends. Vineyards on the surrounding slopes keep the village's winemaking tradition active today.
## Central Izmir and the Route to Çeşme and Alaçatı
The Kordon, a waterfront promenade running along the bay, sits at the center of daily life in Izmir. Kadifekale rises on the hill where the city was originally built and is known for its walls overlooking the gulf, while the Agora at its foot preserves colonnaded galleries from the Roman period. The Kemeraltı bazaar spreads out through narrow lanes and historic hans reaching toward Konak square. Travelers heading west from Izmir can easily continue on to Çeşme and Alaçatı, coastal towns known for windsurfing and stone-paved streets. Together, the three destinations form a route that runs from ancient history to the Aegean shoreline.
FAQ
How many days should I set aside for Ephesus and Selçuk?
Visiting central Selçuk, the ancient city of Ephesus, the House of the Virgin Mary and the Ephesus Museum at a comfortable pace typically takes one full day, and adding half a day for Şirince turns it into a more relaxed two-day itinerary. Given the size of the Ephesus site and the midday heat in warmer months, entering the ancient city early in the morning and moving on to Meryemana and Şirince in the afternoon helps reduce fatigue. In summer, water, a hat and comfortable walking shoes are recommended.
How do you get to Şirince from Izmir?
Şirince lies roughly 80 kilometers from central Izmir, and the most practical route is to travel first to Selçuk and then continue to the village by a short local drive or minibus connection. Drivers can take the Selçuk exit off the Izmir-Aydın highway and follow signs toward the village, while those relying on public transport can take a regular bus from Izmir to Selçuk and a dolmuş (shared minibus) from Selçuk to Şirince. Because the village's lanes are narrow, parking is concentrated at its entrance.
